we rented a house on the north side of the "toll" bridge for 16 days and traveled back and forth on the island for the entire time with no problems. We took several trips to Hol Chan and even rented our own boat thru Capt Danny ( boat was the Dalia) and they took us to the reef several times and we snorkled for hours, where it was not filled with people. During the 16 days we were in AC we snorkled 8 days and dived 2, plus fished 2. The water clarity was about 60 to 70 feet, but there were a few days that it was less when the wind churnned it up,but even on the worst day it was still good. Highly recomend Ambergris Caye where the people are more than frindly and helpful. Plus the food is great in any place you go into. We plan to go back in the early part of the year and look forward to it