We have travelled widely, but never been to the Caribbean, so we researched very thoroughly before booking direct at Settlers Beach – and it lived up to the billing in just about every respect (except one or two...)
The Southern shore of Barbados is cheap, brash and unappealing, while the North is barren & the East is beautiful, but the tidal currents are so strong that the water is unsafe for anyone except a dedicated surfer. So that leaves the West coast, where all the quality destinations are clustered, together with the beach-front villas of the rich and famous.
Settlers Beach was originally built in about 1970, we learned, as a group of twelve two-storey houses. A set of single-storey bungalows were built later to fill in the gaps, but the planning was clever, so they do not intrude on each other and you feel a good sense of privacy. The villas are reasonably well maintained, generously equipped and – most importantly – much more spacious than the villas in the (more expensive and more crowded) resorts nearby. In recent years the management had got a bit lazy, but a new manager (a Kiwi called Vanessa) is obviously taking determined steps to get everything up to a high standard.
The gardens are lovely, and it’s terrific to see monkeys and mongeese wandering about. Service standards are good too, with a quaint daily newspaper called ‘The Barbados Advocate’ (which is like a British regional paper from the 50s) and a choice of croissants, banana bread etc delivered every morning and chocolates / jelly sweets in the evening. The maids do a good job of cleaning and tidying every day, though the pace of work is slow – just like the relaxed Settlers Beach residents. The kitchens are very well equipped (including a washing machine and tumble drier), there are clean towels for bathroom and beach every day and a wireless connection if you want to take your laptop.
So Settlers Beach is spacious, friendly, well-located and much better value than its crowded (but more plush) neighbours. And the beach & IT lounge are great for children / teenagers to meet & make friends. Just about perfect then? Well no. It falls a little bit short in that (probably because of a lack of breakwaters) the beach area has shrunk over the years and is now modest when the tide is out and very small when the tide comes in. So if you want to sunbathe, you will find its better done in front of your villa than under the shade of the beachfront trees.
But the real disappointment comes in the form of the (independently managed) Bar One restaurant. It has got the ideal beachfront position and – being just metres away from the TV/IT lounge and the pool – should really be the social heart of Settlers Beach. It isn’t. Each of the guests seems to take one meal there (generally on the day of their arrival) and quickly concludes that there must be restaurants serving more interesting menus in a less lackadaisical way at a more realistic price. They don’t have to go far (about three minutes walk, actually) to prove they’re right – so they never return. The net result? The prime spot on Settlers Beach is a wasted space.
Did it spoil out holiday? Not in the slightest! Like everyone else we ate on one occasion at Bar One (is this how it gets its name?). Then the rest of the time we either wandered over to the local restaurants or went to the Sandpipers resort next door. It’s more dressy, formal and expensive – but the food (particularly the amazing barbecue steaks) is excellent. It certainly seemed to get the thumbs up from Tony & Cherie Blair and family sitting two tables away!
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