My wife Marina and I have just returned from six days and nights at Riad Laaroussa. In three decades of travel around the world, we have never felt more welcome and at ease than we did at this extraordinary house deep in the old medina of Fez. The house itself is an astonishing oasis of tranquility, from the beautiful inner courtyard with its fountains and orange trees to the terrace and its 360-degree views of the medina and mountains beyond. It is difficult to say which is more pleasurable: the breakfasts of fresh fruit, warm pastries, and Moroccan-style crepes served on the terrace as the sun begins to bake the medina, or the candlelit gourmet dinners set out in the courtyard to the accompaniment of the splashing water of the fountains and the call to prayer echoing from the city’s minarets.
What makes one’s stay at Riad Laaroussa truly memorable, however, is the bonhomie and hospitality of Fred Sola and his wonderful staff – Sabah, Samira, Fatima, Mounir, Mohammed,
Couter, Khadija, Rabia, Naima, and the others whose names I apologize for having forgotten.
The Fez medina, with its narrow lanes crowded with people in flowing djellabas and donkeys trundling by laden with crates of Coca-Cola or bales of wool, can be daunting upon arrival for the first–time visitor. Fred and his staff eased our transition from the 21st to the 9th century by ensuring we were met at the train station and escorted through the maze of the medina and then welcomed with mint tea in the salon of the riad. This respite gave us time to appreciate our new surroundings and compare them to the photos on the salon walls showing what the riad looked like before and during its renovation – a breathtaking transformation.
Fred encouraged us to consider the house our own, especially to feel at home in the kitchen. That is, in fact, where we spent our most delightful time, chatting with Samira and Fatima and Sabah, unlocking the secrets of Moroccan cuisine, learning Arabic along with the cooking, and making good friendships in the bargain. Each day we’d head off into the medina with Samira to shop for that night’s dinner, tasting the figs or grapes she considered buying, getting to know the merchants, feeling as though we belonged in Fez too.
Fred is fond of speaking of the humanity of Fez, that contact with what’s essential in our common nature that one senses in the centuries-old pageant coursing up and down its cobbled streets, swirling past its mosques and through its fragrant souks. He’s on to something there, but it extends as well to the adventure and journey he and his staff have embarked upon at Riad Laaroussa itself. Their joie de vivre is infectious and reassuring. Come to Fez and Fred’s house to feel good about life again.
Sean from Ann Arbor
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC.