Kota Kinabalu
There's not much in this smaller Malaysian town to make it anything special though the small islands 20 minutes boat-ride off the coast are lovely. K-K is what the locals call it.

Getting to Mt Kinabalu National Park
You can easily enough arrange a local taxi to take you there. Look for a 'yellow top' taxi which are the 'around the island'/long distance taxis. I paid about 80 rmb which was a lot less than an arranged tourist transfer but more than the Kinabalu - Sandakan across island bus but it took me where I needed to go and he waited with me till I registered for my Mt Kinabalu in-park accommodation. It's a nice way to chat to a local during the journey too.

Mt Kinabalu National Park
The park is nice but is on a steep hillside which makes anything you may have seen on a map look easier and closer together. I stayed at one of the share dorms in the park. Though basic and nice enough the other guest's large group was noisy and pretty inconsiderate.

Had I known I most probably would have stayed outside the park in one of the 1 star hotels nearby and had a private room. These are down the road side beyond the park entry but pretty accessible, though you do need to lug your pack up into the park to commence the walk when you go. Everything in the park is expensive and it's not an exaggeration to say up to 10 times dearer than the shop/restaurant right out the front of the park or the hotels down the road. I did however find a day cafe in-park where the tour coach drivers hang out which was really cheap.

Pre-Climbing Mt Kinabalu
Arranging the climb is a little bit of a hassle but you can do it yourself without needing to pay a tour company. It is a real frustration trying to do this out of country as 5 places will give you 5 different prices and you don't know if the trips are different or just different prices.

Essentially, all mountain related arrangements are done through Sutera Harbour which is the resort management company back in Kota Kinabalu. If you email them they'll get back to you eventually but if you can get a local name in their booking office you get faster better service. Some of the tour companies have ongoing block bookings which they hand back if not required. Typically the deal now is you must book 1 nights accom up mountain at Laban Rata and 4 meals (cost me 220 rmb by going direct and getting myself up to the park).

Last minute onsite bookers can sometimes not book the accom-meal deal and get just accom and then get free meals up mountain if they don't check tickets there (as some folks in my climbing group did). As mentioned, you need to arrange a spot at the overnight huts up the mountain and do this weeks if not months in advance. That said if you are solo or a few you can definitely head up to the park and check at the guest reception for spots for immediate or next day departure. It's required to get a guide for safety sake and you can't climb without one (you're checked through a number of check points during the climb). These are local guys who cost 70 rmb per party payable at the park office when or before you depart. I just found some other Westerners and introduced myself and asked if I could join their group and split the cost.

A porter service, payable by the kg. is also available should you want someone else to lug your stuff on what is a real hike for even the fittest. For 30 rmb your group gets bus transport to and return from the Timpohun Gate (??) which is the proper summit hike starting point 5 kms from where the park office is. Trust me: take it. My group had considered not taking it but when you see the terrain just getting to the Gate you'll smile at the thought of considering walking it. And it won't be something you'll feel like doing on the return journey.

The Climb
It is tough no matter what your fitness level. I've told friends its like a cross between walking up a steep rambling creek bed and climbing stairs 2 at a time for hours on end. So train that way for long hard climbs and take a 8 kg pack as you will on the days. And don't forget training for the return downhill journey which is the hardest of both days as your legs calves and quads are like jelly by then and every step hurts incredibly. I also walked with 2 walking poles and I don't think I could have made it back down with out leaning on these literally every step on the way.

I'm 44 and had been doing 5 to 7 x 40 minute aerobic training sessions a week leading into this so was surprised at hard it all was. Going your own pace and being prepared for extreme changes in weather and avoiding blisters is the key. I had cold weather gear, wet weather gear, good boots (not running shoes that some say will do) and walking poles and was glad for them all. I also took re-energiser salts and sweets and a camel-back water pack because you work so hard and sweat so much dehydration is typical for most folks. Some medications such as Gastro Stop and other things are definitely also worth taking. The climbing terrain changes as you climb higher so be sure to notice it especially the Pitcher Plants and other flora some of which is found no where else in the world.

I took 6 hours (and was one of the slower walkers) including the necessary stops to get to Laban Rata. As a tip ensure you are booked into Laban Rata Resthouse preferably over the others as they are up to 400 meters above the Resthouse and you'll need to come down to there to eat in the restaurant. This one also has hot showers and is much bigger in size. Folks start to head to bed about 6.30 - 7pm which sounds a bit weird but it gets dark quick and you will be sore and tired from the day and keen on some zzz's as you'll be up and gone headed to the summit at about 2.30ish the next morning. It won't be your best night's sleep though!

Getting up there before the sun rises is what the early start is all about. The summit trail up from Laban Rata is a steep walk up steps, dodgy ladders and rope hand holds (so take some decent gloves) on over 3km of rocky paths. All done in the dark and under head lamp. It's quite a sight to see the conga-line of climbers snail-trailing their way upward. You are able to leave some gear behind at the accommodation but do be prepared for changing weather and take your water and energy bars as up and back it is another long stint. I took 7 hours for the return journey which surprised me.

Many folks don't quite make the summit proper when the sun arises but the sight is great nonetheless as it looks like a sea of sunlit cottonwool when you are up above the clouds. And the summit itself is just a jumble of rocks with a top less than the size of a table. At that altitude (14000 feet) and how tired you are, a few hundred metres took forever as you are literally stepping in seeming slow motion one foot in-front of the other. On returning homeward it was surprising to see the landscape underfoot and now sunlit and you'll surprise yourself that you had infact walked that way some hours before. It's pretty steep and scary in places so do remember your gloves. And plan to take pics as you go or you may decide its all too hard and miss the pics you will no doubt treasure later.

After returning to Laban Rata you can chill for a while, have a hot breakfast and a shower and in due course check-out for the return down the mountain. And you thought the journey thus far was tough! Now you've got another 6 kms of the same hard uphill but in reverse and on now very distressed muscles. I don't know what I would have done without my walking poles to lean on and every step was just so hard and laborious.

Anyway, I eventually got back another 6 hours later in real pain accompanied by my trusty guide who was with me all the way. The others were back up to 2 hours before me but, though quicker, I was glad to hear were all in as much discomfort as me! By now there was no way I could have made it back to the park office by not having return transport arranged earlier.

Having checked out of the park and getting the certificate to prove I summited the mountain I taxied to a much better value guest house just outside the park where I crashed absolutely exhausted for the next 13 hours! I'd just spent 19 of the last 32 hours walking at less than 1 km/hour and I was needing recovery by way of rest and nourishment. You too can be assured your legs will be painful almost to the point that you can't walk (certainly climb stairs) for about the next 4 full days so plan to take it easy in what ever you do next.

I saw lots of folks I met on the climb hobbling around Sepilok and Sandakan over the next few days which was fun as we shared our pain and laughed about the truly great adventure we had all shared. That was my adventure, no doubt you'll have your own, so prepare, endure and most of all: enjoy!

Craig in Brisbane, April 2008

This is my first trip to Mount Kinabalu, it was very fascinating and i enjoyed it a lot, we start our journey from the Timpohon Gate which is about 7KM trail to the Laban Rata, its take about 6 hours to reach the Laban Rata...a long the way, you can see a lot of different plant and view especially the scenery which is very spectacular...but during climbing, you have to be very careful because got few path is very dangeraous and quite scary..as long you got a wooden stick to hold on...its will help you a lot...after reaching the Lban Rata Resthouse, you can straight away get your dinner, there serverd the dinner earlier because the standard time to continue climbing to the peak is about 2am and suggested to take dinner earlies so that you can rest early, which is true...wouldnt get enough sleep if you take your dinner later...when you reach the Low's Peak..its was a very unbelievable view...its was very beautiful and you can take eyes off...its like you were in heaven...the sunrise was spectacular and i enjoyed it alot,...take a lot of photo...after that i continue with the Via Ferrata..walk the torq...rock climbing in Mount Kinabalu..wow...very good and quite extereme actually but should go for it...last but least...whoever want to go for mountain climbing...i suggest to do training first..coz stamina is important for this tripp...good luck for you all..have fun....Gambate!!!!

We were part of a fairly large private group who had everything pre-
planned through a local agency. Fantastic deal - about RM1,000.00 (ground arrangements for 5 days 4 nights (2 at the park and 2 at Kota Kinabalu after the climb), airport transfers, accomodation and some meals, guide, park entrance fee and permit). Got picked up at the airport at Kota Kinabalu and after lunch in the city, drove straight to the Kinabalu Park headquarters for formalities and our keys. We stayed in the Park itself at the Nepenthes lodge. Not new and not a 5 star hotel room but clean, pleasent enough, 2 rooms, double storey, with a small kitchen, sitting and dining area and ...a real wood fire place.

There are 2 restaurants in the park resort itself, one near where the lodges are and the other at the park headquaters near the entrance to the park. Food is not particularly great and prices a bit steep but it is a far way out and we didn't come for the food - so it was alright.

Our accomodation afforded us a good night's rest for the climb the next day but it was raining everynight we were there.. At 7 in the morning of day 2, the ones climbing were taken to the park headquaters for a buffet breakfast and to sort formalities, meet our guides, to weigh and give whatever we are not carrying to the porters to be carried to Laban Rata, which is the where we rest before the final climb to the summit. Once we got our identity tags (carry it at all times as there are checks along the way). Another word of advice: Please give whatever you do not need immediately on the first leg of the climb, to the porter. They charge RM7.00 per kilogram for a return trip (minimum weight of 10 kilos I was told) and the heavier, the happier they are! You will see why their service is worth every penny. We had them carry some drinks as well as a small bottle of mineral water alone costs RM5.00 at Laban Rata.

After that, at about 8.30 am, a van brought us to the Timpohan Gate where our walk was supposed to start. Well, in our case, we had to walk another 15 minutes to the gate because there was a fallen tree that morning blocking the road.

The first 2 kilometeres of the climb was easy, passing a waterfall and dense forest, The paths was well defined and signposted where there are junctions, so no problems if anyone in the group decides to walk a bit faster. The guide will always follow the last person in every group (maximum 6 to a guide).

After 2 kilometers, the trail starts to become steeper and rockier and the plants begin to change a bit higher up. I was told most people make it up to Laban Rata (which is where the resthouses are) normally anywhere between 4 to 7 hours. It's no use hurrying. We mad the mistake by pushing ourselves a bit. It doesn't make a difference whether you reach Laban Rata at 1pm or 3 pm lest it is to ensure you get the lower bunks at the resthouse.

After an early dinner, get some rest by 7-8 pm as you will have to get up very early the very next morning. Your guide will decide when you will start the final climb. For the slower ones, he or she will request that you get up at 1.30 (have something hot at the cafeteria) and start the final walk by 2 am. For the fitter ones, your guide will ask you to start a bit later. It normally takes about 3-4 hours to get to the summit. Catching the sunrise is a bonus i.e reaching the summit before 6 am. However, reaching there too early would mean having to hang around in the cold and literally freezing tempretures and howling winds.

Digressing a bit, your trip up would now apparently include meals at Laban Rata so there is no choosing.

It is very subjective as to how much thick clothing one needs but coming from tropics, belive me, it is cold. Accomodation is basically dormitary style. Try asking if your dormitary is heated. At the main Laban Rata resthouse, it is heated but not some other outer lying huts. There weren't enough space for us in the heated accomodation (and even then we tried to book almost 5-6 months earlier), so a few of us had to stay at Panar Laban Huts, which is further up from Laban Rata. It was raining and windy when we got to our hut and we didn't bother going bak down to the main resthouse for dinner. We had a porter bring up some food for us. Panar Laban hut was basic. The louvred windows could not close tight enough and so the wind kept blowing in. The toilet and shower is in a wooden shack about 40 feet from the cabins - a long 40 feet that is in the cold. Forget about having a hot shower as inevitably, the hot water runs out very early on. I slept with 4 layers on and 2 blankets and it was still cold.

Coming back to the climb up the summit. Headlamps are a must. You need both hands at some parts. There are some reasonably scary parts if you are afraid of heights but the dark helps. Do expect a large crowd streaming up to the summit. There are 'traffic jams' at some points where only one can pass at a time. Every one is a 'headlight' as identifying your your group becomes difficult in the dark. The trail however is marked with ropes. What was annoying is that some very fit and agile climbers were very impatient and forced themselves past some not so agile ones holding on to the ropes at steep places.

Our guide was the reason I made it to the summit at Low's peak. Almost gave up at the last checkpoint at Sayat Sayat Hut where names every climber has to be checked and ticked off by the ranger on duty. Again, remember your tags. Take your guide's advice. Walk very small consistent steps so you won't have to stop a lot. By small steps I mean not more a foot's length. It worked. Past the last checkpoint at Sayat Sayat Hut, there is another fairly steep stretch but after that, it got easier until the foot of the summit. You will see a continuous stream of lights going upwards and this in itself is quite a sight.

Reached the summit before sunrise and it was glorious. Try not to stay at the pinnacle for too long as it can get very congested. There are enough spots where you can sit and watch and contemplate. Your guide would certify that you made it and your certificate would be ready by the time you get back to the park headquaters. Take pictures as much as possible. I did not because fatigue was setting in and had that 'couldn't be bothered' feeling.

Going down all the way to the park headquaters is usually done in one go with a short breakfast break at Laban Rata and to pick up your stuff (about 9 am) on your return from the summit.

Going down was horrendous for me. My knee was knackered by then and it was pouring, making the path and rocks slippery. Most people walk with a long stick which can be bought at the start of your climb. If you did not bring along trekking poles, please get yourself a stick - highly essential. Don't want to elaborate on the return trip save that it was thougher than the climb up.

The following is a checklist of items you may want to consider:

light backpack (as a general rule do not carry more than 7 kilos yourself - otherwise you would not enjoy your walk); widbreaker/
waterproof jacket; at least one complete new set of dry clothing to change; thermals (tops and socks as well if you cannot stand the cold); one fleece jacket; balaclava (so that you can cover your face from the cold wind); headlamps; whistle; at least 2 water bottles with lots of hydration salts; extra shoes/sandals (for use at Laban Rata); Plastic bags (to bag your clothes being carried by the porters especially) - very essential; energy foods - soft foods and bananas are the best. Our power bars turned very hard near the summit and it is an effort chewing!; trekking pole; sun block; paracetamol or diamox (in case of mountain sickness); some tablets for tummy upsets- just in case; ointment/muscle rubs/spray.

Happy climbing. You'll enjoy it. The degree of difficulty is a very subjective issue. I am in my forties and have been training twice a week for the past 5 months. I still play football sometimes. Yet, it took quite a bit out of me. One of the worse things is not getting enough sleep prior to the final ascent from Laban Rata (How do you sleep at 7pm and wake up at 2am?) The best is not to underestimate the difficulty. In that way, if it is easier than you think, then it is a bonus.

Climbing up this mountain is a 2 day affair, only for those fit enough, though. If you are not fit, you would have trouble climbing to the peak.

What you do is start on Day One at the foot hill, then walk up the path along with guides, stay overnight at Laban Rata, which is at 10,000 feet. They have dormatories which are mixed. You then start off the next morning at 0300hrs to climb to the peak hopefully in time for the sunrise. Spend a few minutes taking photos, etc, then climb down over the rest of the day to the foothills.

Bear in mind the Hot Springs detour on the way down which would rest your aching muscles!