If visiting Kuala Lumpur and become tired, or stressed, by the heat and traffic then do yourself a favour and make a reservation for traditional Afternoon Tea served in the Drawing Room of this beautiful historic hotel, linked to the very life and history of Malaysia, designed and built in 1904 by Sir Frank Swettenham, First Resident-General of the Federated Malay States.

Starched napkins, comy sofas and and chairs, the gentle ticking of a long case clock and just the merest 'whoosh" of 21st century airconditioning make the perfect background for this "colonial" hotel in the elegant drawing room looking out over the gardens. Or sit ourdoors on a shaded verandah with whirring overhead pukkah fans to keep cool.

Over twenty different choices of tea are available. A silver three tiered cake stand comes with dainty finger sandwiches, including smoked salmon, cheese, and egg. This is followed by scones with jam (wonderful Rose Petal jam) and cream, a small portion of Rhubarb crumble, a selection of dainty finger pastries and, for those with enough space, a baby Creme Brule so rich you'll hardly want to stagger out of the chair! The tea is served by gracious and charming Butlers - the hotel is exclusive with only 13 Suites and full Butler Service - and plenty of fresh refills for those wishing to linger and relax.

It is hard to believe this amazing and beautiful hotel is a mere 10-15 ride from the centre of KL. Situated in 16 hectacres on a hill overlooking the city, you will feel you are miles away in the country. I asked if I could have a look at one of the Suites and it was no problem at all. Those wanting to get away from it all could do no worse than to take a suite upstairs! I have lived in apartments smaller than the combined space of the Seri Makmur Suite overlooking the gardens. Had my credit card been stronger I do believe I might have collapsed on the bed and stayed for a week!

Afternoon Tea here remains one of KL's best kept secrets. By European/UK prices it is also very, very reasonable. A great discovery!

After an idyllic week in Langkawi, dining on the highest quality food in the most exquisitely beautiful surroundings, with unobtrusive yet incomparably thoughtful service wherever we went, we thought that all these expereiences would be matched only by a return visit to this very special restaurant. Two years previously, my partner and I had dined on the finest Malay food imaginable at this atmospheric and wonderfully executed restaurant, that displayed the finest cuisine in the most romantic of settings.

What a difference two years makes! The restaurant was empty, save for a family who were through within a few minutes of our arrival. Now operated by GMH (who own the Datai amongst others) we experienced painfully obtrusive service from an Assistant Restaurant Manager with verbal diarrhoea, a restricted menu that failed to display any of the qualities that we had remembered from our first visit and a bill that exceeded any restaurant bill from the other superb dining experiences on our wonderful trip. Worse still, I had a stomach upset as a souvenir of the visit that lasted throughout the 13 hour flight back to the UK the following morning. In hindsight, it was clear that the kitchen was so under stocked that the ARM had decided before we arrived what he was going to serve up - and it really was quite ghastly!

The setting is still magnificent and a romantic contrast to the high rise steel and glass of ultra modern KL City. One would expect GMH to get their act together over the coming months at The Gulai House, but if our experience is anything to go by, they stand accused of taking money from the gullible under false pretences. Perhaps they would be better off closing for dinner until they can get the right people to serve acceptable food?

All round a sorry experience and a restaurant to be avoided until it makes a serious improvement in the qualities of its kitchen and front of house staff.

Totally different to normal modern high rise in the far east. Personal attention like no other, a personal butler who would rather take you to your restaurant in his own car than see you waiting for a taxi that is 10 minutes late and who has already asked to iron your stuff as it got creased in the suitcase. Try it