The Arenal Lodge is the most peaceful, friendly and beautiful place to stay near the Arenal Volcano and the mountain jungles of Costa Rica. We just booked our fourth trip -- for August of 2008.

This review details why we keep returning to the Arenal Lodge -- along with tips for transportation, things to do in the area, the best adventure tours, best hiking trails, best time to visit, volcano viewing, etc

> Location
As some of the other reviewers have noted, the Arenal Lodge is roughly 10 minutes outside of La Fortuna -- the main town in the area -- and well off the main road. This is a BIG plus. You are far from the bustle of the town, which has grown significantly due to the increase in tourism. The Lodge also sits in a 2,000 acre preserve, on the top of a hill, in the middle of the jungle. You will be awakened by howler monkeys in the morning -- instead of traffic noise. The view of the volcano is awesome.

> Getting There From the Airport
The Lodge can arrange for a private shuttle from and to the international airports in San Jose or Liberia -- a great idea. If you have driven the mountain roads in Costa Rica, you'll agree! (We drove from San Jose on our first trip.) The front desk at the Lodge can arrange everything; ask for Rolando's transfer service.

> Local Transportation
To hike the trails around Arenal Volcano, visit the Hanging Bridges, etc., you should rent car -- particularly if you plan to stay for 2+ days. With a car, you can explore on your own. The Lodge can arrange for a rental car / SUV to be waiting for you when you arrive, and you can leave it at the Lodge when you go. We always ask them to reserve a small SUV, e.g. a Toyota RAV. Local driving is safe and easy, but watch out for the potholes! (We also use Sunset Tours for kayaking and river rafting, where a guide and equipment are needed.)

> A Good "Home Base" for Adventure:
On our first trip in 1994, we started with the typical Costa Rica itinerary: two days in San Jose, two days at Arenal, then on to Monteverde, then the beach. After we arrived at the Lodge, we cancelled everything else. We discovered that this the perfect "base camp" for hiking, kayaking, fishing, river rafting, trips to Monteverde, the Cano Negro preserve, etc. At the end of the day, we can return to drinks on the balcony overlooking the volcano, and great food. No need to pack, drive and unpack. (I do enough of that on business trips!) Now we spend a week or more at the Lodge, and 'adventure' from there.

> A Family-Friendly Place to Stay:
Everyone is very nice and helpful, from the front desk to the owner. They arrange everything when we stay -- fishing on Lake Arenal, river rafting, lunch for our hikes around the volcano, the SUV rental, etc. The Lodge is also an ideal place for kids; private, small and personal. You don't have to worry. The new pool is a nice addition; my wife and I can relax after the day's adventure -- while our son swims and plays. In the evening, the rock lined hot tub is a romantic place for a couple.

> Excellent Restaurant:
If you're going to stay somewhere for a few days, it sure helps to have a great restaurant -- not the typical 'hotel restaurant'. Be sure to try the steaks and fish. The dining room has a wall of windows that overlook the volcano, and a deck that's nice for drinks in the evening.

> Best Rooms:
I strongly recommend the Junior Suites, Matrimonial Suite and the Master Suite -- which all have decks and great views of Volcan Arenal. The 'chalets' are good for larger families; they also have clear views of the volcano.

> Rain and Weather:
Arenal is located in the mountains, surrounded by rain forest. The temperature ranges between 70F and 80F, and varies by only 4 or 5 degrees year round. The average annual rainfall in Nuevo Arenal is 4.2m (168"). It rains nearly every day from mid-May through February. During the short "dry season", rain still comes frequently however; a two-day break is rare. Typically this means a tropical downpour for a short time each day, followed by sun -- or a longer rain in the afternoon/night. (Think Maui.) Storms can blow in from the ocean, however, with steady rain for a couple of days. A light Goretex-style rain jacket is a very good idea for hikes, along with water/mud compatible shoes or boots.

> Best Time to Go:
We have tried different times of year, and prefer the 'green / low' season (summer). Tourist crowds are down, no lines at the entrance to Monteverde, rooms are less expensive -- and the frogs are out. (An amazing symphony at night!) We didn't notice much difference in the rain or the temperature.

> Best adventures:
Hikes, kayaking, river rafting, fishing, horseback riding -- or simply put your feet up on the deck, with an excellent margarita or Chilean wine! Here are some suggestions:

(1) Volcan Arenal in Action:

Volcan Arenal is one of the most active and consistent volcanoes in the world -- a natural wonder to see and hear, and ever changing. During our first visit, it sounded like 1,000 747 jets taking off, a howling roar. The last time, it was fairly quiet, with a periodic BOOM!, and a constant stream of hot lava rocks that cascade down the side of the volcano. (Visible during the day, and glowing red at night.)

A few important notes: Don't expect fountains of lava, like the photos shown on many websites. Big eruptions like these occur only every several years. Don't expect a 'command performance' during a short stay; Arenal may be resting, or clouds may cover the summit. If you stay for a few days, however, or get lucky -- prepare to be impressed! Definitely try the hikes around the base of the volcano in the National Park; this is the best way to see Arenal up close. Bring binoculars and a good camera or video cam. Drive up to the Observatory or the hill behind the Laguna resort on a clear night, to watch the red hot lava rolling down. DO NOT hike beyond the "Peligroso!" signs. Fiery pyroclastic flows periodically race down the side of the volcano, and will kill everything in their path. You can't outrun them.

(2) Easy Hikes:

> There is a nice 'hike through the jungle' on a cobble-paved path at the back of the Lodge preserve. It takes about 30 minutes. The 'butterfly garden' is located at the entrance, with Blue Morpho and other Costa Rican butterflies. Depending on the time of day, you will hear (and sometimes see) howler monkeys moving through the tops of the trees.

> The National Park at the foot of the volcano has a number of good trails -- maps are available at the entrance. (You'll need to drive; the Park is 10 minutes from the Lodge or La Fortuna.) Try the "New Lava Beds" trail, which will take you to a recent lava flow. You can climb through the strange lava formations, with great views of the volcano. (This flow was still hot and steaming when we were there in 1994.)

> The "waterfall" hike that starts at Arenal Observatory is also easy and very nice. (The Observatory is roughly 20 minutes from the Lodge. There is a small entrance fee for each vehicle.)

(3) Adventurous Hikes:

There are lots of options! One of our favorites is the Old Lava Beds trail, which starts on the back side of the Arenal Observatory, crosses a small river -- and heads up a ridge on the side of the volcano. The trail winds through the triple-canopy jungle. Good hiking shoes or boots are mandatory. As with any hike through the jungle, keep a sharp eye out for wildlife -- beautiful birds and very poisonous snakes! (Particularly when you climb / step over a log.) It isn't too tough; our son hiked with us when he was 8 years old. If you're lucky, Volcan Arenal will treat you to a thunderous BOOM! en route. Note: DO NOT go beyond the "Peligroso!" sign at the end of the trail. If you have seen the photos of the pyroclastic flows, you know why!

(4) The Hanging Bridges:

A must-see, for a small fee. The trail winds through virgin rain forest, with narrow suspension bridges across steep gorges. You walk through the tree canopy at different levels, with breathtaking views. A tip for the more adventurous: also take the guided night tour. The jungle comes alive when the sun goes down. Our guide was an expert in everything that creeps, flies and crawls. (We brought our LED headlamps on the second trip, just for this adventure.)

(5) Kayaking:

Highly recommended! The Lodge can arrange kayaking on Lake Arenal and local rivers. You can glide up to jungle at the edge of the water, and see wildlife that would never be visible when you're hiking. The Rio Frio is another great adventure -- roughly two hours away in the Cano Negro preserve near the border with Nicaragua. We saw caymans, rare Capuchin and Spider monkeys and sloths, and more exotic birds than we could count. (This is an easy flat-water paddle.) The Lodge will arrange everything with a local tour group, which isn't expensive. The guides are very knowledgeable. Note: for anyone who has never kayaked before -- try it here. All of the kayaks are "sit on tops". Absolutely no training or skill is required.

(6) River Rafting:

There are a number of excellent options. The 'Safari float' on the nearby Peñas Blancas river is great for families; an easy float, no rough water and lots of wildlife. (Our son held a poison dart frog -- and still talks about it.) The 'white water' runs on the Sarapiquí are more adventurous, but still a good choice for most families. Again, the guides were excellent and very knowledgeable. The Lodge can make the arrangements.

(7) Fishing on Lake Arenal:

You have to get up when the sun does, but this is an experience to remember -- even if you don't catch a thing. You will see the sun rising over the volcano, from a small boat in the middle of the beautiful lake. Our son hooked a nice rainbow bass on our last trip. We brought it back to the Lodge, and they served it for his dinner that night. The fishing guide is amazing; our son didn't speak much Spanish, and he didn't speak much English -- but they caught a fish together. Something he will always remember.

(8) Horseback Riding:

My wife tried this on our second trip and loved it. Trails wind through the Lodge preserve, to a view point at the crest of a hill. She said the guide is a true "horse whisperer" -- highly recommended.

(9) Just Relax!

This is also a great place to put your feet up, relax on your deck or by the pool, read a book, enjoy a glass of wine in the evening, etc. My wife and I both have serious careers, and this is a perfect place to unwind.

Enjoy!